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When the south swell started to show a couple of days ago I had a great surf session and an even better photography session, but the following day was messy and rainy all day, I tried to paddle out late in the day but there was just too much current and the wave face was all cut up and bouncy.  I was getting a bit ancy that I was going to miss out on a good south swell due to the front bringing the rain, finally after 2 days it let up.  I got up early with Sam pawing at my face to let him out and put a pot of coffee on. As I was eating breakfast in the clean, morning sunshine I noticed Pablo paddling out.  I grabbed my camera and started down to the point coffee in hand.

Stopping halfway along the bluff I caught Pablo’s first wave of the morning. Seeing him take off and surf around the point, I knew it was going to be a good day for surf. I spent the morning shooting the guys surfing some double over head waves, by the time my coffee was finished and the card on my camera full the guys had surfed all their arms could handle. Some of the paddles back to the line up must have been at least 10/15min.

For the afternoon session I decided to see if I could swim out with my waterhousing and get a few shots from a lower perspective.  I figured with the waves the size they were it would be quite a swim and the fact that the take-off was midway between the point and the chilli-bowl meant that it was going to be difficult to stay in position.  I timed it perfectly between sets and made it out to the line-up with little trouble.  As I got there JP was paddling back to the line-up.  The first set came and I managed to catch him  taking off, I was a little to far off the shoulder to get the shot I wanted. So for the next set I moved in a little deeper. JP caught a wave and bottom turned right in front of me. I caught a few more turns before having to duck under the wave.  That was my only chance as I ducked wave after wave when the set had played it’s course I was midway between Pablo’s and the point. No chance that I was going to swim back out.  Thankful that Pablo’s ladder was there, I body surfed into his beach and took the long walk back to the point.  I dumped the camera and grabbed a board to enjoy a few waves for myself.

 

After only a handful of waves I was exhausted from both the surf and the swim before hand. Though what a day of surf it had been.  All that was left to do was enjoy a few beers and the sunset with a couple of friends as we discussed what the Punta had in store for us the next day.

 

Many of these shots can be found for print on surfline, if you would like any of them as hi-res please don’t hesitate to contact me.

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